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Alaska Mountaineering: Mount St. Elias Expedition

Mt. St. Elias, at 18,008 ft (5,488m) explodes from the shores of the Pacific Ocean and rises for over three vertical miles. The second highest peak in both the U.S. and Canada, Mt. St. Elias has immense vertical relief, comparable to Denali and peaks in the Himalayas. Climbed scarcely more than fifty times since the first ascent in 1897, this remote summit offers experienced climbers a world class mountaineering challenge. Arranging to climb this renowned mountain requires previous mountaineering experience and planning. Call us for scheduling, rates, and an itinerary.

Trip Highlights:

• Test yourself on a world-class Alaska mountaineering expedition
• Remote, challenging climbing in Alaska’s St. Elias Range
• Achieve your goals with our professional Alaska mountaineering guides
• Climb the second highest peak in North America

MOUNT ST. ELIAS EXPEDITION - DETAILED ITINERARY

The following is a sample itinerary for this trip. Due to individual abilities and goals, as well as the demanding environment of Alaska, all of our mountaineering trips are customized as they unfold. The guide will constantly make decisions based on weather, logistics and group dynamics to maximize each day’s experience. There can be quite a bit of variation, but we always strive to make every trip your best ever.

Some facts about the mountain…….

At 18,008 ft (5,488 m), Mt. St. Elias is the second highest peak in both the U.S. and Canada and the fourth highest in North America. Its summit rises only 10 miles (16 km) from the head of Taan Fjord off of Icy Bay, giving the mountain immense vertical relief. It’s proximity to the ocean also gives Mt. St. Elias a reputation for brutally challenging weather from storms spinning off of the Gulf of Alaska. Steep slopes, challenging weather, and its remote nature make this the most difficult summit of North America’s high peaks.

Mt. St. Elias was first sighted by Vitus Bering on July 16, 1741 as he explored along the coast. On July 31, 1897, an expedition lead by the famous Prince Luigi Amadeo di Savoia, Duke of the Abruzzi (who also explored the current standard route on K2) became the first to reach the summit. This expedition included noted mountain photographer, Vittorio Sella. The second ascent didn’t happen until 1946 when a group from the Harvard Mountaineering Club (including mountain historian Dee Molenaar) climbed the Southwest Ridge route. This expedition used eleven camps; eight of which were on the approach from Icy Bay and three of which were on the mountain. They were supported by multiple, aerial food drops.

Today, Mt. St. Elias still remains a worthy test piece and hardy mountaineers continue to challenge themselves on its difficult slopes.

EXPEDITION SNAPSHOT

Climbing Mt. St Elias requires skill, commitment, and planning. Our 1:1 guide to client ratio speaks to the seriousness of this epic mountaineering accomplishment. The route will be dictated by the current and expected weather and snow conditions as well as the skill level and goals of the expedition members.

Climbing route beta on Mt. St. Elias is a well-kept secret; fiercely guarded among climbers and guides. We’d hate to break tradition; however, we can tell you that the climbing has been likened to the West Rib of Denali. That being said, local knowledge is essential for a successful expedition and there’s a reason why “St. Elias” is our first name.

Our guides will pick you up in Anchorage, AK approximately two days before departing our headquarters in McCarthy, AK by air for the mountain. Prior to the expedition will be a gear check and final preparations. Once on the mountain, safety will be the top priority. Expedition members will be expected to work together as a team in any situation which may arise. Mt. St. Elias is a difficult, remote mountain and the members of the expedition can’t rely on outside assistance if an emergency should arise.

Although, reaching the summit is the goal of the expedition, it is not guaranteed. Many factors must align for your guide to make the decision to summit the mountain. That being said, the climbing promises to be spectacular, whether or not the summit is attempted.

Upon completion of the expedition, you and your guide will return to McCarthy. Here you are invited to enjoy some well-earned rest, hot meals, and a soak in our wood-fired sauna before returning to Anchorage. We recommend that you give yourself some flexibility in your flight arrangements to account for weather delays in the backcountry portions of the expedition.

WHAT'S INCLUDED?

As with all of our Alaska mountaineering, the Mount St. Elias Expedition includes professional, experienced mountaineering guides with extensive local knowledge and medical training. We provide all food for the backcountry portions of your trip, including hot, delicious meals morning along with evening and plenty of snacks and lunch food for mid-day nourishment. St. Elias Alpine Guides also provides shared group gear, including stoves, pots, and tents, as well as technical gear (ropes, climbing protection, crampons, harnesses, helmets, etc). All you need to bring is your personal gear, (clothing, rain gear, boots, sleeping bag and pad). If you have your own climbing gear, we recommend that you bring it so you can familiar with its use as you learn and hone your systems for mountaineering in Alaska. You can find a detailed list of the gear that we recommend you bring on our mountaineering equipment list.

PDF of this itinerary - coming soon!

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