Courses: Alaska Mountaineering


Education is the foundation to our Alaska mountaineering courses, and the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is a classroom of unparalleled beauty. During our mountaineering expeditions and mountain climbing courses, numerous topics are taught and practiced such as: types, differences and specific uses of climbing equipment, knots, climbing rope use and management, crampon, ice axe, and crevasse rescue techniques, Alaska mountaineering hazard evaluation, glacier campsite selection, sanitation, mountaineering menu planning, hypothermia and frostbite, to name but a few.

St. Elias Alpine Guides is a professional Alaska mountaineering guide service that offers a full range of Alaska mountaineering programs, from a climbing school that includes ice climbing and glacier seminars, to general mountaineering courses, to first ascent expeditions, to high altitude mountaineering expeditions. The remoteness of peaks we offer guarantees solitude, beauty and a feeling of being "the first" that has become difficult to find in the Alaska Range. Our expeditions are totally self sufficient. The nearest humans can be nearly 100 miles away.

St. Elias Alpine Guides is a strong supporter of professionalism in mountain guiding. SEAG is proud to adhere to the highest level of climbing ethics as set forth in the Tyrol Declaration. Our founder, Bob Jacobs, is an American Mountain Guides Association Certified Alpine Guide, as are several of the guides who work for this small personalized company.

 

 

Glacier Travel and Climbing: 5 days

  • Base Camp
  • Glacier Travel
  • Close views of Mt. Blackburn

 

 

Education is the prime directive for this mountaineering adventure. We focus on learning the skills necessary for exploring heavily glaciated terrain. The trip starts with the unique Alaskan experience of being ferried into the mountains one at a time in a small plane; then we land in a tiny hidden valley alongside the 24-mile long Kennicott Glacier. This mountain excursion teaches equipment selection and use, glacier travel technique, snow and ice climbing skills, and crevasse rescue. Throughout the expedition, participants learn personal skill recognition, hazard assessment, and judgement building. During the last days, we'll apply our newly honed skills on a "graduation climb," choosing from a multitude of peaks clustered on the southeast shoulder of 16,390-foot Mt. Blackburn. No previous climbing experience is necessary, but good physical conditioning is required. This adventure is an introduction to glacier travel on snow-covered glaciers, glacier climbing, and steep snow climbing.


Expedition Course: 8 days 

  • Technical snow, rock and ice climbing
  • Climbing systems
  • Remote mountain valleys

 

This mountaineering course focuses on teaching the fast and light alpine climbing techniques that allow climbers to accomplish more goals in shorter period of time.

The heart of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park in Alaska is a landscape that rivals any mountain kingdom in the world. It will also be our classroom: filled with opportunities for learning and practicing alpine climbing techniques. The course objective will be to move carefully over many types of terrain, working on route finding, glacier travel skills, crevasse recognition, campsite selection, avalanche evaluation, anchor systems, multi-pitch climbing, ice climbing, and steep terrain climbing.

 

A small bush plane lands us in a narrow alpine valley, next to Iceberg Lake or Ross Green Lake, depending on snow conditions. We will climb high onto the surrounding alpine glaciers to make advanced base camp. The peaks in these areas are numerous, providing a variety of terrain to explore this lofty realm "fast and light." We'll climb snow covered and non-snow-covered glaciers, steep snow couloirs and faces, rock ridges, and technical ice climbs.

No previous mountaineering experience is required though a basic climbing background is helpful. Good physical condition is a must, and backpacking experience is required. This is an 8-10 day course.

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Technical Mountain Course: 8-10 days

  • Leading technical climbs
  • Advanced climbing systems
  • Multiple technical peaks

The 50 degree snow and ice slope rises above; the early morning glow illuminates the summit in warmth. Snow pickets, ice screws, a few pitons, sway from the harness as you place your ice tools. After several days of mock leads and advanced anchor systems, it’s your lead.

A higher mental and technical skill set is required for a lead climber.

What is the best protection? Where are the likely crevasses? Will the snow hold a picket or a deadman? Which way to camp while a blizzard blows? Set among 7,000 to 9,000 foot technical peaks in the Chugach or Wrangell mountains, you'll gain knowledge and experience in becoming a lead alpine climber, becoming valuable member on future trips.

Our technical course is ideal for an intermediate climber with a solid foundation of climbing equipment and system use and is comfortable setting up a crevasse rescue. This is an 8-10 day course.


Ski Mountaineering Course: 7 days

  • Amazing skiing and riding with 1st descent opportunities
  • Guide to client ratio offers unlimited learning potential
  • Level I Avalanche Certificate

 

Don’t miss this amazing opportunity to ski Alaska terrain and learn from the pros! You will fly from McCarthy to the Bagley Icefield - an amazing one hour bush flight across the awe-inspiring Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. The Bagley Icefield is the largest sub-polar icefield in the world, and offers incredible terrain for skiing and an unparalleled environment for studying snow science. Many of the mountains you will be surrounded by are unclimbed, unskied, and unbelievably skier friendly. Our ski guides will lead morning and evening discussions and training covering travel in avalanche terrain, human factors that effect decision making, trip planning and preparation, observations, travel techniques, avalanche rescue, and crevasse rescue. Days will be spent touring, skiing and riding in and around avalanche terrain. Our small client to guide ratio will allow all participants to focus on their own personal goals, from intermediate skiers with a keen interest in snow science, to extreme skiers that look forward to chatting over hot cocoa after hitting some of the extreme skiing lines that only Alaska can deliver.

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Mountain House Trip
  • Rated one of the 10 most incredible places on Earth by Reader's Digest
  • Easy to intermediate ski touring with incredible views.
  • Relaxing by the wood stove in the Mountain House at the end of each day.

On a perfect day, the Don Sheldon Amphitheater on the Ruth Glacier is so spectacular as to be almost beyond belief - which is why Reader's Digest listed it as one of the ten most spectacular places on earth!  The Ruth Gorge, right around the corner from the Mountain House is equally spectacular.  And the best way to enjoy this glaciated paradise is to stay at the world famous Don Sheldon Mountain House.


Mountain 
                  
 HouseWe will use the Mountain House as a day-lodge and base for our four-night, five-day stay as we tour around the area.  The glass-walled, heated, six-sided building provides a cozy rest between tours. Its location, on a glacier surrounded rib of rock, provides a fine viewpoint for some of the mighty summits in the area, including Mt. McKinley and the Moose's Tooth.  Ski touring on the Ruth Glacier, while not difficult, brings us closer to the sights, which are so impressive you may have trouble believing what you see.  And if we're lucky, this is an amazing place to see the Northern Lights. Other activities are available for the more adventurous.

Our trip will start and end in the historic town of Talkeetna, where we will fly by ski-equipped bush plane to our glacier landing.  It is only a short walk or ski to the Mountain House, where our cook and guides will care for us for up to five nights.  We would hardly call it roughing it.  Each day will feature a ski tour, or possible climb, returning to the hut for a well earned rest.  Participants should be intermediate cross-country skiers in fair physical conditioning.

 

Sign up now for 2008!

April 27th - May 1st

Click here for Specific Gear List for this trip only (pdf)

 


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ST ELIAS ALPINE GUIDES, LLC
PO BOX 92129 ~ ANCHORAGE, AK 99509
TOLL FREE TEL. & FAX: 888.933.5427
LOCAL PHONE: 907.345.9048

info@steliasguides.com


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